Snapshots from Iraq

I've been in Iraq for over two weeks and realized I hadn't posted any snaps from my time here. To be honest, I have most been writing reports and attending meetings, but it goes without saying that I also have gotten to see a bit of the country (at least in the North). So...today, I want to share with you a few snapshots of my time here and let you know some interesting things I've seen so far...

Ferris Wheel @ Pank Resort: This shot was taken a few days ago. Pank is a place were my org. does a lot of trainings and I always find it a fascinating little spot. It's owned by a savvy Iraqi man based in Sweden who realized that those of a "certain class" in Iraq would want a fun getaway and with the support of a lot of friends in the right places, he created this little resort. Now of course I'm not talking Club Med here, but this place is nicely nestled in the mountains which is perfect around this time of year (spring) when everything turns green and fresh with gorgeous views of the mountains and the air is nice and crisp. The resort is an especially nice retreat for Iraqis from the southern part of the country who rarely get to see nature like this (i.e. as opposed to the dry desert plains) and for who a reprieve from the summer blaze is worth any cost.
Rewas: Iraq may not be a foodie's heaven, but it certainly has some interesting surprises! As we were driving along the road, I kept seeing small pick-up trucks along the road with people selling this green stuff. I commented to the driver and my Danish colleague that I found it funny that they would sell something basic like asparagus along the road. The driver was shocked and immediately pulled off the road. Turns out that my "asparagus" vision was actually a mountain vegetable called rewas that kind of looks like a weird combination of an asparagus, maybe some broccoli and whatever other veggie with a fuzzy stem. You peel back the outer part of the stem and eat the core which has a tart, slightly sweet taste. People seem to just eat it raw, but I'm asking around for what types of recipes could be made with this. Maybe a pie or a salad? Rewas only comes out for one month a year and sells like mad!



Rooftop View: I am currently staying on a ridiculously guarded compound in a simple 3-story house. The ground floor is the main office area while the top floor holds 2 small bedrooms, a kitchen and a bathroom. The living room area has been converted into another office space and there is a small patio which is nice for an evening dinner. As is often the case in "field life," the lines between home and work are very much blurred. But in the time that I've been here, the rooftop has become my favorite space. As you can see, the view is basic at best and hardly picturesque, but the space still provides a view of the small neighborhood beyond the compound walls as well as the compound occupants (majority military folks) going about their daily business.
In the Hills: as mentioned above, the views in the hills are amazing with the clouds weaving in and out and the sun casting it's light and the small towns below.

Silhouette: Finally, here is a little snapshot of yours truly. One one of the small hills, an old tower had been build a little over "forever" ago. There was some heaving and body pull-ups to get the the based within the tower but then there was nothing between you, the tower ridge and the entire view of the area. The evening sun was finally setting and my colleague got this quick shot before be had to meander our way down to dinner.

Well - that's it for now. Tomorrow is old souk, citadel, and carpet museum day so hopefully, I'll have more snapshots for you next week.

Have a great weekend!

{Photos: Brandie for Out & About Africa}

The Hills Are Alive....

I love nature and just being outside, but tree hugger that I am, even I was a bit skeptical when I saw hiking on the itinerary for the week. Hiking in Iraq definitely did not fit into the "stay indoors" instructions that one of my friends had ordered before I left.

The morning started out unusually cool and foggy and the first 30mins into our hike felt like something straight out of a spooky movie. We were in a valley (read: sitting ducks), within what felt like a stones throw away (but it was more like an hour's drive) from the Iranian border where 3 foreigners had accidentally crossed over and gotten arrested and there we were, just hiking away!



But who am I to let some silly fears stand in the way of a good time! Before I could think straight the sun was out in all it's 100+ degree glory and the young Iraqi girls (more than 100 of them) I was with were just moving along, singing to their favorite beats as they walked. As you can see, once I got past the dull brown, slightly ashy looking facade of my environment, there was beauty just waiting to be seen. These flowers (above) were one of the things that really caught my attention. I can't imagine what this place must look like in the spring!


This house was also something that caught my attention because it was so clearly built to blend in (or the guy was just using the stones at his disposal and wasn't really thinking about the look). I even noticed that one entrepreneuring man had set up a little farm at the bottom of a tiny waterfall. How he managed to get his produce out of this valley is really beyond me....but I loved that he was out there just doing his thing!

Note: I later learned that the ridge tops were being discreetly guarded by local military for our little journey....not to mention the security guys that were basically side-by-side with the expats as we walked through!

{Photos by Brandie and E. Elliott}

Carpet Day in Iraq

Wow – it seems like forever since my last blog post but I’m officially back home! After I left Iraq last Monday, I made a one week detour through Belgium for a real vacation (including a blog-cation). Throughout this week, I’ll take a break from my regular blog schedule to share the highlights of my trip.

Let's kick off by sharing one of my favorite moments in Iraq. Months before my trip to Iraq was even planned, I had visions of beautiful carpets floating around my head. My friend went to Afghanistan for a work trip and came back with unbelievably beautiful carpets and just the thought got me even more excited about the prospects. While Iraq is no Afghanistan, Iran, or Pakistan when it comes to all things carpets, in my very amateur opinion, it was definitely nothing to sneeze at.

My excitement about the possibility of carpet shopping was escalated by the fact that I would be going with a real live carpet expert – someone who had spent years collecting carpets in Morocco, Pakistan, and Afghanistan, has exhibited her collection and even written a book about carpets! On the Saturday that we made the much anticipated trip, we arrived at a very unassuming little shop on a dusty corner near the Citadel in the city of Erbil. When we walked it looked like a typical hole in the wall shop – a few nick nacks, a little jewelry case filled with some nice silver jewelry but my mind was focused on the one thing that I was not immediately seeing. My guide is very good friends with the shop owner (especially considering how many clients she has brought him over the years) and she walked directly to the stairway that led to the basement. As I stepped down, I knew I was someone very special! There were TONS of goodies and the basement was gigantic. Piles of carpet were just sitting around waiting for me to go through!

Over the next two hours, my guide and I pulled out a gazillion carpets looking for something special. It was so perfect that I had her with me because she was quick to tell me fact from fiction! Colors too bright – not old enough and a bleed job waiting to happen. Too many details about knot tightness and style was put to the backburner – like I said, this wasn’t Afghanistan!
After more than an hour of carpet viewing, these two beauties (first and second images) made my final cut. Both are from the Kurdish region of Iraq and are from the early 1900s (between 1920s-1930s – another reason why having a expert is helpful – she could confirm that the shop owner was not pulling my leg about the dates).


One stunning carpet got left behind (see carpet directly above). It was the oldest of the ones that I loved – 1910s – and was stunning! Unfortunately with one sizeable hold, and lost edges, it had one too many challenges for my blood and would require more t.l.c. than I thought I could give it (…at least I thought so at the time). My guide bought it because she just didn’t have the heart to leave such a beauty behind and was already plotting to send it to a friend in Pakistan who she could trust to do the necessary repairs. On day before I left , she give me the carpet as a present while I couriered a stunning engraved plate that she had also bought at the shop.

Even though the evil empire that is the airline between Iraq and Europe slapped a big fat overweight-luggage fee on me, it was still cheaper than anything I could have found here of similar style/age/quality/etc and seeing them spread out in my apartment - as I try to figure out where they work best - makes it all worth it!

{Photos by Brandie}

Iraq Trip: Picnic Time

As I usually have design on the brain, I definitely keep my eye open to the various aesthetics around me and these picnic tables that I saw on my second day here got my attention. First, people actually have picnics in 100+ degrees of heat. Hello!!!! Second, I love that in an arid area overlooking a desolate area, you have several of these picnic table with sharp whites and blues that remind me of places closer to ocean. I imagine that this area must be really beautiful in the spring when the rains have greened things up a bit.

Iraq Trip: The View Up Top

Hi Everyone!

Just wanted to give you a quick hello from Iraq. I have finally attached a few photos of my time here. When I first arrived I got the chance to make a little trip to the north of the country close to the Turkish and Iranian borders (about an hour from each country) and these pictures reflect a little bit of the scenery that I saw.

The journey started with me strapping on my first bullet-proof vest. One was found that weighed less than the 1000-ton version that military and bigger dudes usually wear, but sitting in the vehicle, it still felt like I had a mega-child clinging to my chest. Decked out in my protective gear, I was fit to hit the road and as we climbed further into the mountains, the view became even more incredible. It was like the Grand Canyon but not so grand and not so red but still very beautiful and totally unexpected. After the flat, psycho dry heat of Erbil, I was relieved to get views like this. The temperature also cooled off (if you call 99 F degrees cool) as we climbed higher and higher into the mountains.


My first hint of my final destination was this mega ferris wheel! I know...a total surprise and not what one would expect in Iraq. But yes, this "luxury" (me and the owner still have different ideas on what is considered luxury) resort included ferris wheel, bumper cars, roller coaster and more. While work definitely kept me busy the entire time I was up there, I did manage to sneak in a few rides! :)

More pictures coming up tomorrow....

{Photos by me}